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Good Treble Sweater

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Are you looking for a cute, quick project? 

 

I can promise you that this will be one of the QUICKEST sweaters you will ever make! This design uses a fuzzy, worsted weight yarn and an oversized hook for a plush, cozy garment!  Of course, if plush and warm isn't your thing, you can also make this with a thinner weight yarn and smaller hook size for a lacy, breathable garment!   

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I originally designed this pattern on a whim! I made a 52 inch (circumference) sweater in only 10 hours!  Some of my pattern testers made their sweater in one day!  The speed makes this sweater great for impulse projects as well as presents!

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This sweater can also be customized in so many different ways!  Make your sweater a dress, a bolero, oversized, standard, short sleeve, long sleeve, etc. The possibilities are endless! 

Here are some tester photos for some inspiration!

If you'd like to see more tester photos as well as more information about the testers and how they made their prototypes, you can find the Lookbook at the bottom of this page! 

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IMG_5848 - yana rei.jpeg
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20240326_174347 - Bethanie Crisp.jpg
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Let's get started!

Materials:

  • Worsted weight yarn with a halo is recommended.  Alternatively, you can use a normal worsted weight yarn held together with a lace weight yarn with a halo.  

    • If you decide to use yarn of a different weight or yarn with no halo, make a swatch using the same stitch used in the pattern and adjust your hook size accordingly to reach your desired density (see the “Swatching” section below for more details).

  • 8mm crochet hook, or, a hook size to achieve your desired density.

  • Darning Needle

  • Scissors

  • Measuring Tape

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Stitch Abbreviations (U.S.A. Terms):

Video tutorials are linked for some of the more complicated stitches.  Please know that the videos that I recorded are only visual demonstrations with no sound. It is recommended that you know how to perform the basic stitches before making this pattern.

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Basic Stitches/Terminology:

  • ch = Chain

  • dc = Double Crochet

  • RS = Right Side

  • sk = Skip

  • ss = Slip Stitch

  • st(s) = Stitch(es)

  • tr = Treble Crochet

  • WS = Wrong Side

  • yo = Yarn Over

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Double Crochet Stitches:

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Treble Crochet Stitches:

Measurements:

  • Measurement A:  The circumference of the widest part of your body that the sweater will cover (chest, waist, or hips).

    • For me, my largest measurement is my hips since I made my sweater long (past my hips).  If I made my sweater cropped (ending at the waist), it would have been my chest.

  • Measurement B: (“Off the shoulder” or “Cold Shoulder” only): 

    • Middle of left bicep to middle of right bicep, OR, the distance between where you want the shoulder “cut-outs” of your sweater to start/end.

Garment Ease:

Choose the amount of ease you would like to make your garment. This will be used to determine how large to make your sweater.

  • Standard/Loose: 4 inches / 10 centimeters

  • Baggy:  8 inches / 20 centimeters

  • Oversized: 12 inches / 30 centimeters

  • Super Oversized: 16+ inches / 41+ centimeters

Calculations (Using Inches):

  • Calculation C: (Measurement A/2 ) + (Garment Ease/2)

  • Calculation D (“Off the Shoulder” and “Cold Shoulder” only): Which value is larger?   Calculation C or Measurement B?

    • NOTE:  If measurement B is larger, your ease will be affected (larger than expected).  Feel free to adjust measurement B or your desired garment ease for your desired fit.

    • If your measurements are the same, use either measurement.

Pattern:

Important Information: 

  • While working through this pattern, make sure to read the entire step before performing it. Pay close attention to any “NOTES” that may appear under the step.  

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  • Complicated stitches have links to video demonstrations in the “Stitch Abbreviations” section above.  

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  • Links to video demonstrations of any special techniques used are linked directly under the applicable step.

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Swatching:

Since this pattern is made-to-measure, making a swatch is not required; however, it is highly recommended to make sure the yarn and hook size you choose is giving you your desired density.  You can make your swatch by making 15 VERY LOOSE chains and then working steps 2-5 of the Front/Back Panel section below.

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Construction:

This pattern will be made from bottom to top.  We will start with the front/back panels which will be made flat. The shoulders (optional) and sides will be seamed to create the armholes. The sleeves will be crocheted directly on the armholes and made in the round.

Front/Back Panel:

The panel will be worked from the bottom to the top as a rectangle.

TIP: Row 7 is what creates the “line” running across the front of the sweater.

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Start by making a VERY LOOSE starting chain until the length measures… 

           Calculation D if making an “Off the Shoulder”/”Cold Shoulder”  version…

                or…

           Calculation C if making a Normal/Closed Shoulder version.

NOTE:  The weight of the sleeves/sweater will likely stretch the neckline some.  You may want to make your panel 1-3 inches more narrow to accommodate this. 

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Write down the number of chains you made to remember for the next panel.

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Row 1 (WS Row):  We will work this entire row in the back bump of the starting chain. 

In the first ch/back bump from hook, work 1 sdc. Then, work 1 dc in each ch across. Turn your work. 

Row 2 (RS Row):  

IMPORTANT NOTE:  This next row will begin with a fpstr.  Some people found this stitch to be too loose (depending on tension).  If you find that this stitch is looser/taller than all other stitches, you can use a fpsdc instead. 

Work 1 fpstr in the first st. Then, work 1 fptr in each st across. Turn your work.  

If you are unsure how to work a fptr in the last st of your row, you can watch the following video for a demonstration:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxdvxXZ5Liw&t=40s

 

NOTE: Double check the width of your panel to make sure that it didn't stretch too much.  Adjust your starting chain as necessary. 

Row 3 (WS Row):  

IMPORTANT NOTE:  This next row will begin with a bpstr.  Similar to the last row, some people found this stitch to be too loose (depending on tension).  If you find that this stitch is looser/taller than all other stitches, you use a fpsdc instead. 

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Work 1 bpstr in the first st. Then, work 1 bptr in each st across. Turn your work. 

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If you are unsure how to work a bptr in the last st of your row, you can watch the following video for a demonstration:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxdvxXZ5Liw&t=112s

Rows 4-6:  Alternate between Row 2 and 3 instructions for rows 4-6. Turn your work.   You should now be facing the WS of your work. 

NOTE:  You can work more or less rows of the row 2 and 3 repeat if you wish for your “ridges” (the lines on the sweater) to be more or less frequent. Just make sure to end after completing a RS row (“row 2” of the repeat). For reference, the lines on my sweater are about 5.75 inches (14.5 cm) apart. If you are making a cropped sweater, you may want to consider making your lines more frequent. 

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Row 7 (WS Row): Repeat the instructions for row 2.

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Repeat the instructions for Rows 2 - 7 until your panel is your desired length. You can end your panel on any row of the repeat.

 

NOTE:  Make sure to hold your sweater at the proper position to ensure the correct length!

  • “Cold Shoulder”:  The top of your sweater will start at your collarbone.

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  • Off the Shoulder or Closed Shoulder: The top of your sweater will start at the middle of your shoulder (next to the middle of your neck, where a seam on a t-shirt would be).  

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Fasten off.  Work your second panel by repeating the entire Front/Back section for the same number of stitches and rows as you did for the first panel.

Seaming:

We will start by seaming the front/back panels to connect the shoulders. Then, we will seam the sides of the panels. 
 

Shoulders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxdvxXZ5Liw&t=147s
 

With the WS facing outward (RS facing towards each other), align both of your panels and seam them based on your shoulder preference below (I chose to ss them together).  Make sure you seam the same number of stitches on both sides:
 

  • Closed Shoulder: Seam the tops of the left and right shoulders together by working through both sts of the front/back panels using your preferred sewing method.  


Leave the center of the panel unseamed (your desired neckhole width) to create the neckhole. 
 

  • Off the Shoulder/Cold Shoulder:  Hold the garment up to your body and center it with your neck.  If the neckline is too large for your liking, seam the tops of left and right shoulders until your neckline/cutouts are your desired width (also known as Calculation D). 
     

For example:  My cutout measurement is 23 inches but my panel width is 25 inches (subtracted 1.75 inches to accommodate potential stretching).  I seamed 2 inches worth of sts on the left and right sides of my panels to reach 23 inches while stretched/worn. 

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Sides: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxdvxXZ5Liw&t=214s

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Flip your panels inside out so the RS of the panels are now facing you (WS facing each other).  Starting at the bottom, use a darning needle to seam the first/last stitches together and stop when your armholes are at your desired width. Make sure the rows are aligned. This will make the seamed stitches look like a fptr.  

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IMPORTANT NOTE:  After seaming a few stitches, you may find that there are some noticeable gaps to the left and right of the seamed stitches (this is dependent on tension and if you chose to use the fpstr or fpsdc).  If this is the case, seam the next sts inward instead of the last sts at the end of the row.

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Stop seaming when your seam reaches the middle of your chest, or, when your armhole (the space left unseamed at the top of the sweater) is now your desired width. 

Make sure you seam the same number of rows on both sides.

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TIP:  Don’t sew too tightly or it will make the stitches warped and wavy. 

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Cold Shoulder Ties: Crochet Cords

For those who are making the cold shoulder version, I recommend making the ties now so you can try on the garment as you make the sleeves (for a more accurate length).  You can use anything (such as ribbons or a gold chain); however, I chose to make 2 crochet cords (one for each shoulder) about 12 inches (30 cm.) long.

A video demonstration on making a crochet cord can be found here:

https://youtu.be/NFYRwDqlu-8?si=BaH2jmtyxkrqms6Y&t=81

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  1. With 2 ends held together, make a slip knot and insert your hook through both loops. 

  2. Take 1 of the yarn strands and wrap it around your hook in a counter-clockwise direction.  

  3. With your other strand of yarn, yo and pull through both loops. 

  4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until your cord is your desired length. I made mine around 12 inches (30 cm.)

  5. Fasten off and weave in the ends. 

  6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the second tie.  Make it the same length as your first tie.  

  7. Locate the center stitch of your front or back panel (you can place a st marker in this stitch if you want).  Hold the garment up to your body and align the center stitch with the middle of your neck.  Count how many stitches away from the middle you want to place your shoulder ties.

  8. Thread your tie through the stitches of the top rows of your front/back panel and tie them in a bow. I chose to leave my ties a little loose so the front panel hung slightly below my neck. 

Make sure you place the ties the same number of sts away from the center stitch. 

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Sleeves:

The sleeves will be made directly attached to the sweater. We will start by joining it to the bottom of the armhole and working in the round without turning. We will also be incorporating decreases to make the sleeves smaller towards the wrists (optional). 

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The sleeves have many techniques that may seem a little confusing. I HIGHLY recommend watching the following video which demonstrates the techniques used to make the sleeves:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxdvxXZ5Liw&t=363s

 

  • With the RS of the body facing outward, position the garment so the armhole is facing you.  

  • Join your yarn to the stitch to the right (if right handed) or the left (if left handed) of the “seamed” fptr/fpstr stitch.  

We will now be working in the round. We will not be turning between rows, which means that every row will be a RS row.

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Row 1:  Work 1 fpsdc around the “seamed” fptr below.  Work 2 dc into every row edge (fptr/fpstr/bptr/bpstr sts) until you reach the shoulder seam.  Place 1 extra dc into the “seamed” sts, then, continue to work 2 dcs into every row edge until you reach your starting position.  LOOSELY ss into the top of the first st to join in the round.

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NOTE:  The LOOSE ss into the top of the first st should be loose enough to leave a “stitch” sized gap between the last st and first st. making the ss too tight will make it look like the tops of the sts are connected (which we don’t want).

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Next, I will be including instructions for decreasing which is optional. You can stop decreasing at any point when your sleeve is the desired width. Just make sure to write down how many decrease rows you worked so you can remember for the other sleeve.

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Row 2: If you are NOT decreasing, work the “row 3” instructions for row 2 instead.

 

We will place a decrease at the beginning and end of this row. The rest of the row will be worked as normal.

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Work 1 fpstr (or fpsdc if that’s the stitch you used for rows 2 and 3 of the body) around the below “stacked” stitch, work 1 fptr dec (also known as fptr2tog), work 1 fptr in each st around and stop when you have 2 sts left, work 1 fptr dec, LOOSELY ss into the top of the first st to join in the round.  

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Rows 4-6: 

If decreasing:  Repeat rows 2, 3, then 2 for rows 4, 5, and 6.

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If not decreasing: Repeat row 3 for rows 4-6

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Row 7:  Work 1 bpstr around the below “stacked” stitch work 1 bptr for each st around, LOOSELY ss into the top of the first st to join in the round.  

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Repeat rows 2-7 until your sleeve is your desired length.

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Repeat the entire Sleeve section for the other sleeve while working the same number of stitches, rows, and decreases (if applicable).

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Finish off by weaving in any loose ends!

Congratulations!

You have finished your version of the

Good Treble Sweater!

 

I'd LOVE to see your version! Please consider sharing it on Instagram and tagging me so I can show off your gorgeous work! Are you interested in becoming a pattern tester or winning free patterns? Please consider following me on Instagram! instagram.com/maeli_designs/

Tester Lookbook:

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